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April 20, 2026
Arthur is 65, retired, and spending three months travelling solo (with company when he wants it!) through Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. These are his diary entries - an honest view from the first ever DECADES trip, written for anyone wondering whether to make the leap themselves.
Siem Reap is in north-west Cambodia, about 70 miles from the border with Thailand. It used to be the capital until the 16th century, and amusingly translates as "Siam Defeated", a reference to Thailand's former name. It's dominated by the UNESCO Heritage site of Angkor Wat, regarded as the largest religious complex in Southeast Asia and the centre of Khmer culture.
As it's flatter than the Fens, I hired a pushbike for a couple of days' exploring which took me out to Angkor Wat itself and some of the "adjacent" temples in the complex; didn't feel that adjacent cycling in the heat and humidity I can tell you! Unlike Thailand, these temples are architectural relics compared to the functional places of worship in the old Siam. Quite striking. That said, so many bloody tourists taking 27 selfies and TikTok poses at every photo spot - I'm in danger of becoming grumpy.
I hadn't appreciated the amount of ordnance that still blights the country from the US bombing in the 60s (have they learned nothing?) and the civil war in the 70s to 90s, the latter being mainly landmines. I visited the APOPO operation here, also known as "Hero Rats," where they train rats to sniff out and detect different types of explosives. It's still a work in progress, but deaths due to old munitions are now about 30 a year compared to over 200 just ten years ago. A lot of previously unsafe land is now available to agriculture and conservation projects. It was fascinating to watch the rats in action in a display.
After squeezing in the Botanical Gardens, I knew Ben & Iona (thank you for Niamh, my beautiful new great-granddaughter btw) wouldn't forgive me if I didn't check out the Cambodia Circus. It is in part a social enterprise that gives underprivileged youngsters access to education and the opportunity to train for a circus-related career if they want it… performing or supporting. The show I saw was a series of sketches contrasting how Cambodians deal with everyday issues such as rain, social media and celebrity compared to westerners. It was a blend of humour, improv, dance and circus performances and was a great evening. The show cast all met in the ring afterwards to talk with the audience if they wanted.
I swapped the pushbike for a scooter to get me further out of the city. The fatality rate is about half that of Thailand adjusted for population, which is bonkers when you see traffic here. It is quite possibly the most lawless country I've driven in… ever! As far as I can tell, there are no rules. Crossroads are akin to the American four-way stop, but nobody stops! They slow down a bit and claim a path, overtaking, undertaking, wrong side of the road, four on a scooter, pulling in front of you, aiming straight at you; it should be carnage, but strangely it isn't. It sort of works. But I digress!
I headed about 50km out of the city to what is often described as the jewel in the crown of Khmer art. It was so different to the temples I'd seen in the previous days. So much more ornate, intricate, pink! There's an urban myth that they must have been made by women as the artwork is so delicate, no clumsy male hand could possibly have done it.
Compared to my fellow travellers, I'd got by with virtually no insect bites thus far and had probably got a bit lax about using Deet. Whilst I don't think they were mossies, I woke up one morning with around a hundred bites on my ankles and lower legs. Thankfully they're not painful nor are they itching. But they're not pretty!
Once again, I was suckered by the promise of a waterfall and that provided a monumental off-road experience on a 125 twist 'n' go. But we're towards the end of the dry season and waterfalls aren't what they promise in the promotional materials...
I headed out to a biodiversity and birdlife sanctuary which I explored by boat. My guide got me close to cranes, herons, pelicans, cormorants and several smaller birds I didn't recognise. I headed south to the lake to hire a kayak but the road was flooded and the only way to the lake is by boat, an expensive trip just so I can hire a canoe. I'm sure there'll be other opportunities. No birdlife pics, as I haven't downloaded them from the other camera yet.
As ever, met some fascinating people whilst out and about, found some good local beers and had some interesting meals although I wasn't tempted by the deep-fried snake… there's got to be a better way of cooking it than that! And there's a bit in the centre called Pub Street which is nothing but pubs and restaurants. Whilst there as part of a group it was fine, but as soon as you're alone or with only another bloke, it suddenly becomes very seedy and all of a sudden, everyone's a pimp. Most tuk-tuk drivers ask if they can take you to a lady or girl. Seems quite at odds with the general vibe of the country and its lovely friendly people.
It was a 04:50 pick-up on our last full day to see sunrise at Angkor Wat. And it was absolutely worth it, quite mesmerising. The trip included cycling on roads and jungle trails to see three other temples, including Ta Prohm, perhaps best known as the setting for Angelina Jolie's Lara Croft: Tomb Raider film. I'm not going to bang on about temples and sunrises, I'll let the photos do that.
Next stop Phnom Penh.
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