Arthur's Diary, Week 3: The Slow Boat & Chiang Mai

Arthur is 65, retired, and spending three months travelling solo (with company when he wants it!) through Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. These are his diary entries - an honest view from the first ever DECADES trip, written for anyone wondering whether to make the leap themselves.

340km up the Mekong for a tenner

The journey from Luang Prabang through to Chiang Mai in Thailand took about three days of solid travelling but spread across four days. We had a day on the boat from Luang Prabang and went about 190 km along the Mekong and stopped at a place called Pak Beng overnight in really nice accommodation with pool and spa facilities, so we stayed there another day as well to break up the journey and then went back to the riverboat for the last 150 km which brought us up the Mekong where it becomes the actual border between Thailand and Laos once again.

The river boat was interesting with lots of time to relax, watch the world go by, read, doze and see the locals using it as part of their normal lives. Quite a trip that only cost just over £10 for the 340 km over 2 days. Glad we did it this way.

The border crossing was a complicated affair, but it all worked ok - eventually. In a very nice villa with 6 rooms, a pool and a bbq, and we have the place to ourselves.

Chiang Mai - what a place

What a great place to spend just over a week. The original old city exists - at least with the moat and bits of the city wall encasing the square mile. It's a really vibrant place with some very traditional areas, but also great newer spots like Nimman with a couple of great craft ale spots! There's plenty to do and see in the surrounding areas as well if you want to get out of the city.

Doi Inthanon and the scooter question

Doi Inthanon was on our doorstep and is the highest point in Thailand at about 2,500 m. I wasn't sorry that we could drive most of the way there, but a hike later in the day a bit lower down the mountain was good fun with great views across the valleys. I was in two minds about the whole scooter thing - I wouldn't dream of riding a motorbike at home without full safety clothing. I succumbed and picked up a little bike to give me better access to the surrounding parks and waterfalls, and I'm so glad I did. Although getting back to the city at evening rush hour was one of the craziest driving experiences ever, especially with a pillion.

A top-ten dinner

I met a Canadian lady on one of the trips and she'd been recommended a particular restaurant just outside the old city so we did that and I've got to say, probably in my top ten dining experiences ever. Each of the seven courses was immaculately presented, introduced in detail by the chef, explaining his inspiration (often his nan's cooking!) with everything on the plate being locally sourced and edible, including the leaves, petals and gold leaf.

Sticky waterfalls and lost trunks

There's a waterfall out here where the rocks are "sticky" and you can walk up it from the bottom through its four stages. That was fun, although that saw me lose my second set of trunks so far this trip, left at a water experience. Spent less time around the temples here but there are plenty of them. Definitely somewhere I'd recommend and could come back to for a longer visit.

What's next

Next stop is a mountain monastery for a 2 day retreat - and digital detox.