Vietnam Travel Diary | Why I Said Yes

Peter is 70, well-travelled, and not remotely done yet. A decades-long plan, a Graham Greene novel, and a 16-year-old daughter who said "just go, Dad" brought him to DECADES — and to Vietnam. This is his story, written for anyone who's ever stood at a major birthday and wondered if now might finally be the time.

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A paperback  “The Quiet American” on a shelf in a shipping container in a spot of unnamed Sahara first introduced me to Vietnam. I read it as a story of indifference, the random nature of war, of aging and insecurity. From that first reading I formed a vague thought that one day, perhaps in a year or so, I might get to see some of the places Graham Greene used as settings. 

Forty years – or so – later and the thought of visiting Vietnam once again came to mind due to a combination of binge-watching Anthony Bourdain and an approaching major decade birthday.

In the interim came Good Morning Vietnam! Apocalypse Now and other similar films that showed jungle and rice paddies, street scenes and rural roads; none of which are actually Vietnam. And then I discovered the film “Indochina” and Catherine Deneuve. I could not tell now whether I remembered Vietnam for the tragic beauty that was depicted or the French actress that I associated with sunsets and peril. 

Judging that I have a decade of safe and enjoyable travel remaining, I wrote a ten-year plan, with visiting Vietnam in the first year. It was Vietnam, then another, then somewhere else until I ran out of places. I wanted to be somewhere outside of my comfort zone but not too far. Somewhere where I could find unfamiliar foods and a beer or two at a street café where I could kick back and just watch the world pass by.

My survival level in a very few languages would be no help at all in S. E Asia so that was a plus for the project but being entirely on my own, while manageable around Europe and some African adventures, was a negative on the page.

The Decades concept of extended, supported tourism took away many of my reservations about embarking on a solo adventure. Not having to be concerned at the end of each day to find a bed for the night. Not having to spend time plotting travel routes and matching up train or flight time tables. Not plotting distances and re-fuelling stops; all take away the stress of previous adventures. So, no bouncing around in a 4*4 across the Serengeti wondering if I have enough water, fuel and if the suspension is going to get me as far as the next large town. No worrying that the reserve tank on the motorbike is going to empty before I find a gas station in the back end of Eastern Europe, or even rural France. 

I cannot recall how “Decades” came into view, perhaps some clever bit of social media thrust the concept onto my screen. I might have dismissed the content and the company but for the impression that there was something there, some passion, that came through the text that was not present in other companies offering Vietnam. None had quite the mix of empathy and opportunity that I felt gave a back-stop, a reassurance, a safer, less stressful means of adventure as Decades.

Objectives are useful, aims are great, but the details in getting to an objective when travelling are better when flexible. An outline, a short list, an “I’d like to go there” all help a traveller but none should get in the way of the spontaneity, the sudden side trip, the delay that turns into an unexpected experience. Decades have some interesting trips arranged and guide apps give choices to supplement these and discover other places to go, other things to eat, see and experience. 

Or I could just wander down to the local patisserie and drink coffee with croissants or a fresh demi-baguette dipped in hot chocolate. Perhaps I’ll try to find one of Bourdain’s favourite places, jump into a tuk-tuk and go to a market for a wander and lunch and then back to my temporary “home” to do very little until it’s beer and sunset time.

Ever since my dawn safari experiences I have liked to be up as early as possible. Really the best part of the day nearly everywhere I have been is at either end. I fully subscribe to the Iberian day plan of up early, lunch and siesta, very late dinner. I am curious to find out if that can be applied in Vietnam, and curious about the dish pho and so many other menu items that, while in the UK they might share the same name, I expect to be a world different to the westernised versions. Apparently, beer holds immense cultural significance in Vietnam, embedded deeply in the traditions and customs of the country. Now there is a big plus. Vietnamese guys might almost be Brits if they like beer that much. I intend to explore this fully while avoiding the international Heineken, Budweiser and Tiger beers and shall put “quan bia” into all my guide apps.

So as Vietnam became a possibility did I hesitate?  No. “Go Daddy, just go,” encouraged my 16 year old daughter, “and bring me back lots of key rings”.

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